12v Lead Battery
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12V 18Ah Sealed Lead Acid SLA Scooter Battery T4 D5745 40648 Replaces UB12180
12V 18Ah Sealed Lead Acid SLA Scooter Battery T4 D5745 40648 Replaces UB12180
Paypal   US $38.94
12V 18AH 17AH SLA AGM Sealed Lead Acid Emergency Lighting Alarm UPS Battery
12V 18AH 17AH SLA AGM Sealed Lead Acid Emergency Lighting Alarm UPS Battery
Paypal   US $42.99
12V 17AH 18AH 12 Volt Replacement SLA Battery for PE12V17 Sealed Lead Acid AGM
12V 17AH 18AH 12 Volt Replacement SLA Battery for PE12V17 Sealed Lead Acid AGM
Paypal   US $42.99
SLA Battery Replaces UB12180 12V 18AH Sealed Lead Acid for Emergency Exit Light
SLA Battery Replaces UB12180 12V 18AH Sealed Lead Acid for Emergency Exit Light
Paypal   US $38.94
NEW 12V 35Ah SLA Sealed Lead Acid Battery for SCOOTER
NEW 12V 35Ah SLA Sealed Lead Acid Battery for SCOOTER
Paypal   US $71.20

12v Lead Battery
12v lead acid battery question ?

Im using a 12v car battery to power some lights in my cabin how low should i let the voltage go across the battery under load before cutting it off to protect battery from damage ?

You need a different type of battery, a "deep cycle" battery commonly used in recreational vehicles and solar houses to do exactly what you want, power the lights and such from a battery. You can drag the voltage down further than for a typical car battery and not damage the cells. By the way, the most accurate way to judge the charge state is the specific gravity vs. temperature and volume of the electrolyte, but voltage will do in a pinch. A typical cell is at 2.2 volts at full charge. I would go no lower than about 80% or about 1.8 volts per cell. Here is a link to battery information:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead-acid_cell

Information on why you need a deep cycle battery is about 1/2 way down the page. What you really should be looking for is batteries designed for the task. Look for solar power contractors in the phone book. They will have a line to sources for bigger batteries designed to do exactly what you want which would be better and more cost effective, than a bank of typical car batteries. They will cost more per battery, but will last much longer making your overall cost to operate per day less. A friend of mine, back in the Y2K days prior to year 2000, moved to the country and went solar. His cells are 1 foot by 1 foot by 2 feet high and he has 48 cells plus 4 spares. Design life is 10 years. Installation cost in 1999, $8,000 for battery and solar panels to charge. This equates to 15 years of the electrical cost if supplied by the grid. So, in effect, he pays 2/3rds of what he would the electrical company to replace the battery cells and solar panels every 10 years. Yes, solar panels DO wear out over time and "lose capacity". Many solar enthusiasts "forget" to mention the solar panel life cycle and replacement cost when they take cost into consideration. So you see, when they say solar is free power, it is NOT exactly free, is it? In reality it is simply lower cost power, NOT free by any means. The same applies to electric and hybrid cars by the way. An electric car is just fine and "green", but what recharges the batteries? How much do you have to PAY for the electricity? How much coal and oil was burned to generate the power you use to recharge your battery powered car? If I could afford to convert, I would do it in a heartbeat. The killer (and why many will not do it, even if it makes sense to do so) is the initial cost to get the system up and running. Which is the problem YOU are facing now...

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